rish pubs are much more than places to quench your thirst for a pint. They have a culture of their own, providing a place to meet, laugh, eat, hear music, and relax. Great care goes into preserving the mood of the rare auld times and even the newest pubs are furnished with antiques and the woodwork of yore.

Merry music and hearty food enhance the magic, creating what the Irish call craic, or good times.
If you're drinking with a group, think 'rounds'. Everyone has a turn buying each person a drink, so when a pint is bought for you, you're expected to reciprocate.

Absorbing a little pub history...

uring the quaint and convivial days of the Middle Ages, Irish pubs were stops where merchants and travelers replenished themselves with a drink. Later, when the strong arm of Britain was upon Ireland, these watering holes flourished, even though they'd been declared illegal, and served as a welcomel escape from the colonial tyranny.

Later, in Victorian times, pubs moved from drab and dark to warm and welcoming with provincial details and embellishments. Many of the older establishments still bear their original counters and elaborate windows.

"Pub" is short for "public house", the opposite of a "private house" — private meaning it was for members only. Those who frequented public houses were often the hard-working lower classes. The one who ran a pub was called a "publican".

The local pub of yesteryear's small towns doubled as the corner grocery store. Even today, many rural pubs continue the tradition, providing milk and eggs (along with a refreshing nip) to the locals. Pubs also have a grand place in Ireland's history since they're where revolutionaries secretly met and planned the country's freedom fights. Irish literary figures also graced many Dublin pubs with their presence.

Savoring the black stuff: Guinness...

few misconceptions exist about Guinness. One is that it has a huge number of calories. Actually, a pint of Guinness has about as many calories as a pint of skim milk — around 100. Another is that Guinness is a heavy drink, an idea that is probably derived from the look of it. Really, Guinness is very easy to drink and refreshing — even with the thick head. An extra bonus is that the famous "Guinness is good for you"ad campaign is on the mark. With only four all-natural ingredients — barley, hops, yeast, and pure Irish water — and no preservatives, Guinness is fairly guaranteed not to give you a hangover. (Note: This doesn't apply if you start downing shots of whiskey with it!)

Five words to remember: A good pint takes time. Barkeeps draw the pint halfway and let it sit for about two minutes. Then, by pushing the tap forward so the stout comes out even slower than the first draw, they fill the glass the rest of the way. This slowness isn't cruel taunting; it's how a real pint is pulled. Even when you finally get the pint in your hands, don't drink just yet. Wait until it has settled completely and has turned a deep ruby, almost black. A good test is to take a coin and tap it against the glass, working upward. When the coin makes a heavy thud throughout the glass, rather than a tinny tap, your brew is ready!

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